Yes, with a recommendation. Do not change more than one thing at a time prior testing it out on the track. If you are now going slower than you were before the 2 or 3 modifications, you will have a hard time figuring out which modifications caused the problem. Was it the suspension change, or the different tires, or maybe just the tire pressures?

1)The best bang for the buck is an alignment - I know, hard to believe. Basic setting suggestions: Front - Maximum camber, 4mm toe out, 1.5 degrees negative camber. Rear: 4 mm Toe in, 2 degrees negative camber.

2) Sticky tires - you will be shocked at the difference. Be careful, as the room for error gets significantly smaller with slicks.

3) 5 or 6 point Harness - you can feel the car much better if  more of your backside is touching the seat. You can also concentrate on driving the car instead of keeping yourself in the seat.

4) Racing seat - see harnesses above.

5) Horsepower increases should be the LAST thing considered as an upgrade. Extra horsepower just makes it more difficult to control the car and in most cases slows driver learning time. I have seen sub-200hp Mustangs chew up 405hp Corvettes repeatedly. Why? Because they spent more time learning how to drive the car and tweak suspension settings etcetera instead of relying on horsepower to make them faster.

Rotors: Do NOT get cross-drilled rotors. They will crack on you faster than you can say "waste of money".

Bigger Brakes: Unless you are racing and need that extra 5 feet of stopping distance, bigger brakes are a very expensive upgrade for minimal effect. If you are running a Z06, the stock parts are more than sufficient.

Better Pads: Pads are a good modification if you are experiencing brake fade. NOTE: the more aggressive the pad, the harder they are on the rotors and the less street-worthy they become.

Better Fluid: Another good option to relieve brake fade. Get the highest boiling point possible. Motul is an excellent high performance fluid that can be found at your local motorcycle dealer.

Stainless Brake lines: Very little bang for the buck. In theory, it is supposed to help the rubber from expanding during hard braking. Actual benefit-they will last longer than rubber hoses that will deteriorate over a period of years.

Ahh, the age old question.  The short answer is - it depends. While we have discovered that it is not necessary, even in the Texas heat, most people prefer the piece of mind it gives. (We guarantee you will get opposing "opinions" on this topic.)

At this point, trailering your car to the track is a viable option. This allows you to bring you car back home if anything were to break. It makes it much easier to get extra tires, tools and accessories to and from the track.

You will need at least a 16'x8' trailer. Approach heights and ramp lengths should be considered depending on the type of car. Most newer vehicles come with tie-down points on the frame. Purchase some T-hooks that enable you to utilize these points with proper tie-down straps. This prevents the necessity of attaching to suspension parts that may cause misalignment and maybe even damage to chassis parts. Make sure and check your tow vehicle's GVWR and other trailering capacities prior to trailering your vehicle.